This is the layout, seen from the component side. If you're unsure, always refer to this picture of the layout. The designators match those in the [[Gen7 Board-ARM 2.0#Parts Lists|parts list]].

This is the layout, seen from the back. Note the MCP2200 on this side.

Start by marking the center line and the corner pins of the MCP2200. This is helpful for placing the chip.

Such cranked pliers dub nicely as a weight for holding down the chip during soldering. Note the marking on the chip in the lower right corner, this has to be there and //not// top-left.

Soldering can be done even with a fat iron. If bridges appear, suck away excess solder, add more flux, and heat again.

Start on the component side with the 9 wire bridges. They're the matte green tracks in the layout graphics.

R11 and R12 have 10\_Ω, so they're color-coded **brown-black-black**.

R14, R19 and R22 have 560\_Ω, color code **green-blue-brown**.

R2, R4, R6, R8, R10, R16 and RT1 (7 each) have 1\_kΩ, color code **brown-black-red**.

The other thermistor comparison resistor, RT2, has 4.7\_kΩ, or **yellow-violet-red**.

R1, R3 and R30 are 10\_kΩ, coded **brown-black-orange**.

The last two resistors, R5 and R7, have 1\_MΩ, color code **brown-black-green**.

D1 and D2 are diodes, so you have to take care of polarity for the first time. Diodes have a white ring on the housing, which must end up closer to the bottom of the board.

L1 looks like a thick resistor, but is actually a coil. Inserting direction doesn't matter here. Color code is **brown-black-black**.

U6 is the crystal generating MCP2200's clock. Insert it in either direction.

Now it's a good time to insert all 10 of the 0.1\_μF noise canceling capacitors, C8...C17 and C19. Again, direction doesn't matter.

C3 and C4 are 22\_pF and make the clock crystal swing. Insertion direction doesn't matter either.

LED2, LED5 and the 3.3\_V LED are green. As LEDs are diodes, direction matters. The longer of their legs is +, which happens to go into the upper hole for LED2 and LED5, and the lower hole for 3.3\_V LED. You can also compare with the + sign in the layout.

Same for the yellow Stby (Standby) LED, the longer leg goes into the lower hole.

The reset switch fits in two directions, both of which are fine.

C2, C5, CT1 and CT2 are 10\_μF electrolytic capacitors, which have a polarity, so insertion direction matters. Like with LEDs, the longer leg is +. Additionally, their housing has a white - stripe. Refer to the + signs on the layout.

C1, C6 and C7 are 100\_μF and electrolytic as well, the minus stripe goes always to the right. Again, compare to the layout.

J1...J12 are twelve jumpers in groups of three. Direction doesn't matter. A drop of glue on the component side can help to keep them in for soldering.

J20 is a single jumper, putting the LPC1114 in programming mode when set. Fan is a jumper pair, acting as header for connecting a fan. Directions don't matter.

Changing the appearance of the board quite a bit, insert all 8 female headers U2...U5 for the Pololus. It's a good idea to actually insert a stepper driver while soldering, to ensure a nice fit.

Q3 is a LP2950 voltage regulator, comes mounted on brownish cardboard and reads some gibberish on the package. Q4 has the same package, is an 2N7000 MOSFET, comes mounted on silvery cardboard and actually reads "2N7000" on it. Insertion direction matters for both, note the flat on the housing.

As (for now) last electronic component, solder the 28-pin LPC1114 socket in. One end has a groove, which should point to the right.

There are 6 Molex KK256 2-pin headers for various purposes. Direction isn't crucial, but it's a nice idea to stick to the layout.

Stepper motor headers are Molex KK256 4-pin. Don't save too much on solder, as quite some current flows through these pins.

To complete with the KK256 parts, add in the 6-pin SPI headers. Here it's an even better idea to stick to the layout, as plug-ins for this header may also rely on this convention.

Now the somewhat bulky USB header. It snaps into place. Make sure to also solder the snappers, as these are needed for proper shielding.

When inserting the disk power header, it's crucial to get the chamfers right (to the outside). Else you'll have only 5\_volts to drive your steppers.

The 8-pin ATX12V header has a nose, which must point to outside of the board. Don't save on solder, big currents are going to flow here.

The ATX24 header has also a nose, this time it has to point inwards.

This is the header for the extruder heater. Similar to the KK256 2-pin, but bigger.

Last not least, solder in the screw terminal for the heated bed heater. Don't save on solder, big currents here.

For reference, this is how the board's backside should look about now. Minus both big MOSFETs.